First Days in Cusco

Miriam with Maren Elwood at one of our favorite restaurants in Cusco, Cicculina.

This is Day 3 in Cusco, Peru and, like so many trips I take, I am here thanks to an invitation by a friend. In this case, Maren Elwood from Carmel, CA,  invited me to blog about her project, On-Site Expeditions. She is a Visual Anthropologist studying the descendants of  Saqsaywaman and ancient stone architecture.

---

Morning view from our apartment at the top of Calle Resbalosa, a name that means slippery street.

​We have rented a two bedroom apartment in San Cristobal community overlooking the historic Plaza de Armas. The view is stupendous. At night the street and residential lights on the surrounding mountains appear like magical twinkling stars. 

---

The Altitude & Shopping

Typical Cusco street heading uphill to the craft center of San Blas. Only one car can drive and no real sidewalk.

The altitude here is 12,000 feet. To put that in perspective, Denver is 5280 feet high. It is recommended to acclimate to the altitude before any strenuous activity. I take high altitude pills to avoid altitude sickness. They are working. A headache the first two days along with tiredness is all I’ve experienced. Drinking lots of bottled water, chewing coco leaves and resting helps a lot.

I admit we walked uphill to the craft market in San Blas, the artistic community here. I found myself out of breath  and relieved to report that younger visitors to Cusco are experiencing the same difficulty.

So since I’ve been here I have eaten (of course) and shopped (of course), two of my life’s pleasures. Most walking is uphill and much as I have been exercising on treadmill and bike, I am still feeling it in my legs. Lungs? Now that’s another breathless story.

Maximo Nivel - The Language School

Maximo Nivel is a language school on the Avenida del Sol.

Tomorrow I begin learning Spanish two hours a day at Maximo Nivel, a language school. They also offer cooking and salsa classes. I’m in.  If I had my druthers I’d have visited the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu prior to Cusco so I am passing that valuable information on to you. They are at lower altitudes. I will  visit both these prior to leaving this fascinating city.

---

Jewelry & Textiles

Slideshow of various stores that I shopped at and some of my purchases. 

Jewelry is lovely and I have bought some unusual pieces to sell upon my return. For myself I visited Magica Arte at Triunfo #18 . Then to A La Lau on Cuesta San Blas #522 for unusual sterling earrings. Alpaca is beautiful, varied, creative and everywhere.

One must beware of alpaca vs synthetic. Hold the garment up to the light. If the color is uniform, it’s likely alpaca. If you see red, blue or green sparkles, this indicates synthetic material. Wool feels soft and cool. 
 
I visited the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco on Avenue El Sol #603. It’s a non-profit organization promoting the empowerment of weavers in ten villages through the sustainable practice of Peruvian ancestral weaving in the Cusco region. Through workshops, educational opportunities and the promotion of their textile art, weavers are enabled to maintain their identities and textile traditions while improving their families’ quality of life. www.andeantextilearts.org.  Donations are appreciated.

---

Locals & The Epicurean Life

There are ladies dressed in Inca traditional clothing holding baby llamas or alpacas, selling their handiwork on street corners and asking for Soles (Peru money) in exchange for allowing a photograph to be taken.

Jack's Cafe in Cusco has great banana pancakes.

The epicurean life here is exemplary. Service is polite and even sweet. Fabulous trout ceviche is my fave so far. Cicciolino is a terrific restaurant located at Ruinas #465. Corn and (4000 types) potatoes are served in every type of dish. Pizza, pasta restaurants abound. Jack’s at the corner of Choquechaka & Cuesta San Blas for breakfast: don’t miss the banana pancakes.

---

The Belmond Hotel - Formerly the Hotel Ministerio Built On
The 14th Century Monastery Built By The Spanish

View of the steps and art at the Chapel de Abad adjacent to the Hotel Ministerio.

The Belmond "Hotel Ministerio" is full of 15th Century art like this painting.

Right now I am sitting in the bar of Belmond Hotel Monasterio, mesmerized by the beauty, eating trout ceviche (third time in 3 days), drinking Malbec and talking to you. This hotel was a monastery built in 1595 on the site of the Palace of Inca Amaru Qhala. Catholic priests were trained here. The chapel was added after the earthquake of 1650 and is decorated in Baroque style with original paintings framed in gold plate. Breathtakingly beautiful. Visiting here is a must: Plazoleta Nazarenas #337.
 
More about the history of Cusco in another blog. I won’t bore you with too many details, I promise. If you are inclined, “Exploring Cusco” by Peter Frost will provide you with plenty of historical facts.  Hasta la vista!

---